Prague was one of those places I’ve always wanted to visit. I never really knew why – I don’t have any personal connection to it nor do I know much about it’s history apart that it was the capital of ancient Bohemia. I’ve recently become a fan of Art Nouveau and Prague’s native son Alphonse Mucha is by far the master of the genre which was probably why I added this to our destination list.
Our trip to Prague was cut a night/day short due to overbooked train connections from Krakow. The overnight train journey was restful and pleasant despite our initial misgivings due to the rudeness of the train attendant to some Asian passengers. He was lovely to us but practically yelled at the poor couple. Anyhow, we booked the Radisson Blu Alcron which was located just off Wenceslas Square walking distance from the station. Poor John had to lug “the beast” (our largest suitcase) across cobblestones for a walk which is longer in real life than google maps would have you believe. To add some intrigue to our walk, there was this strange dude carrying a knife walking behind us. Yes a knife! I was in mild freakout mode and decided to stop and let him overtake us. He wasn’t menacing nor was he interested in us or the contents of “the beast” but Jesus do you really need to carry a big knife around town? I’m sure he was only going to use it to cut some sausage or perhaps peel an apple for breakfast but it was scary nonetheless.
The hotel was a stunning example of Art Deco Elegance. I absolutely loved it from the moment I walked in. Of course our room wasn’t ready for check in at 8AM so we dumped our bags and went straight to the nearest Starbucks. Thankfully, we didn’t have to walk that far as it was right on the corner. Beautiful, lovely, friendly and consistent Starbucks! I rarely wax lyrical about Starbucks because I wouldn’t set foot in one in Australia, but if you want a decent coffee, service, free fast wifi and a clean toilet then Starbucks is the place to go. Once we were caffeined up we went for a walk to the Stare Mesto ‘old town’.
We arrived at the old town Hall just as the Astronomical Clock was striking the hour so we got to see it in all its resplendent glory. Dodging Segways and organised tour groups we took in the sights of the square, which was like all old town squares….lovely old buildings lined with cafes. The landmarks of the square are the Cathedral of Our Lady of Tyn and the Town Hall Tower. After a lap of the square, we had some “brunch” which consisted of a snag from a street vendor. Cheap and not so nice….oh well! Then it was off on my pilgrimage to the Mucha Museum.
The Mucha Museum is a tiny museum with a limited display of the master’s sketches, lithographs and some paintings. I really expected more and I have to say I was a bit disappointed. Still, it was great to see the studies for some of Mucha’s most recognised works such as his Gismonda Poster which he created for Sarah Bernhardt. I did learn a lot about Mucha and it has inspired me to learn even more. I feel that the Czech republic should celebrate this man a bit more. Austria has really embraced and celebrated their icons in Scheile and Klimt – the Czechs should do the same with Mucha.
*Update – If you’re really into Mucha like I am please check out Mucha’s page on Artsy.net. I’ve just recently discovered Artsy and it’s a fantastic resource for any art aficionado. It is a beautiful site where you can while away hours discovering new artists and rediscover your favourites. Check it out!
Prague boasts a massive castle and is home to the famed Charles Bridge. We never made it to the castle but did get onto the bridge. I’m sorry to say that it does not live up to the hype. It’s crowded, the statues are black and the vendors selling kitsch portraits and jewellery detract from the experience. I wonder if that is the Tourist Fatigue talking.
We’d spent the last 3.5 weeks travelling through Istanbul, Austria, Hungary and Poland and I think we’ve had our share of monuments, museums and galleries. Even the cobblestones weren’t cute anymore. We were tired, getting cranky and intolerant. It is a shame that we didn’t get to see all of the delights that I’m sure Prague has to offer. We did what we could but it was only a cursory glance. Damn you tourist fatigue!
Beyond the historical, Prague is famous for another thing and that is their beer. They are the inventors of Pilsner but their real strength is their dark beer. The best memories I have of Prague are sitting in Wenceslas Square and Stare Mesto Square sipping a dark Staropramen people and building watching. The sun shining, the buskers singing and the inane banter of tourists were so relaxing and it actually felt like we were on holidays instead of being on a school excursion. I know its my fault for pushing us so much on this trip…I love history but even I needed a break.
Prague also has a bit of an underbelly. It is a notorious destination for British Stag Parties and Sex Tourism. There are gentlemen’s clubs strewn about the place and there is lurid advertising for them everywhere. There is even a Sex Machines Museum (yes we dared each other and went after a few too many Staropramens!) I guess this is to be expected, it is Bohemia after all.
On our final night we decided to dine in a proper restaurant like grown ups. We were a bit tired of cafes and the disappointing and expensive fare they dished up. The food we had in Czech cafes did not hold a candle to their equivalents in Poland on a price or quality perspective. The Radisson Blu’s restaurant “The Alcron” is one of the Czech Republic’s only Michelin Starred restaurants. After careful scrutiny of our budget we decided to dine at the hotel’s other restaurant “La Rotonde” which we figured would share a kitchen and would be better on the hip pocket. We had a sensational evening – the service and food top class! We complimented the chef and he gave us a tour of the kitchen and even let go of a secret or two. We met the executive chef of the Alcron which was also nice. A top night to end the truly european part of our European Vacation.
I would like to go back to Prague one day and explore the castle and perhaps tour the Art Nouveau Municipal Building. I do hope that I get back there when I am not so tourist fatigued.
